BIKE THROUGH PATAGONIA
ERIK ŠTURM AND MANJA PEČKAJ – Bovec, Slovenia
In general, all I can say about our journey so far is that it is extremely beautiful. Large and small streams flow from everywhere, we are surrounded by endless meadows of cows, which just look at you lazily when you pass by. And again and again new views of snow-capped peaks and glaciers open up to us. All this beauty outweighs the overcome macadam slopes that harden your rear side and can be so steep that the weight puts you right on the back wheel, like a horse that doesn't want to move forward!
We met several travelers on the way, mostly cyclists who are headed for Caretiera Australl (which is part of our route), or even to Ushuaia (like us). Everyone has their own wishes, expectations and each their own way of moving (some people rush forward, others stop a lot and see the sights - we are somewhere in the golden middle ).
We also met an extremist - a German on foot, loaded with a cart on which he pulls his luggage, decided to walk the whole of Patagonia! What I have to say is very brave!
Thursday, 1.12.
The ferry trip took almost a whole day. There we had to deal with drying freshly washed cycling equipment in the wind and rain. Fortunately for us, it cleared up even before we reached the coast.
In the late afternoon, we finally got on our iron horses and went down the park. With the phenomenal sound of a frog, which we have never heard anywhere else, we passed many hiking trails and arrived at the camp with a view of the Chaiten volcano.
Friday, 2.12.
We started the day very slowly, waking up to a beautiful view and filming a promotional film for the Bovški Film Festival. When we finally set off on the gravel road, we soon encountered the first flat tire. We immediately put Erik's tube changing skills to the test and I have to say he did a great job for a first time so we rocked on down the gravel.
After lunch, after a long time, we enjoyed several kilometers of asphalt - it flew by so easily that we made up for the slow morning. We quickly reached a nice place by the river, where all of us, muddy from the macadam, took the mandatory second shower and enjoyed catching fish.
Saturday, 3.12.
Armed with sugar and chocolate, she tackled the first pass. In the length of eight kilometers, we rose by 600 meters in height. Which wouldn't even be such a problem on an asphalt road, but macadam! The glacier, which we approached for the first time by noticing the incredible blue color of the ice, gave us a new impetus!
After the pass, there was a quiet path between very small and lonely villages, most of which only have a couple of old wooden houses. Only a stubborn bull that didn't want to get out of the way crossed our path. In the end, tired from the adventure, we turned to one of these houses and camped in their yard.
Sunday, 4.12.
Today, with the thought that the rain would catch us, we set off early on our way to a nearby town, where we would hide from the weather. We soon discovered that their rain forecast meant five drops per minute and continued on to Puyuhuapi. Beautiful views of the lake opened up to us along the way, which made pedaling down the macadam slopes much easier!
When we finally arrived in the city, we treated ourselves to a long-awaited meat dinner and civilized ourselves a bit (read hot shower and laundry in the camp).
Monday, 5.12.
Good morning, having just loaded up, we realized that Manja's rear tire had burst for the third time (if that doesn't confirm that the ass is too heavy, I don't know what is ). After the morning "colobotia" we set off along the fjord to the Queulat National Park. We had our first small trek there. We walked along the glacier lake and arrived at a point where we had a beautiful view of the glacier.
Tuesday, 6.12.
The second mountain pass on the way (an 8-kilometer climb of 500 m) showed us that even if everything is paved, the biggest slope will certainly be macadam! And when you drive those measly 5km per hour through potholes caused by car brakes, you feel like a small sailboat that has gone astray in too big waves.
However, like all slopes, we overcame this one and camped in a beautiful area by the lake
Wednesday, 7.12.
After yesterday's pass, the view changed for us today. We arrived among the spcak (very bare, steep mountains, with pointed and snow-capped peaks), which we missed in the previous part of Patagonia. We went down the valley between them, which was made more difficult by the stronger wind. So I can say that I'm glad to have Erik with me, because I trudged along like a duck on his back for several kilometers in his windless wind.
In addition to the mountains, the vegetation has also changed. Abandoned meadows are full of purple flowers, which infuse fresh energy into you with their fresh scent.
In the evening, we arrived at the bridge by the beautiful river, where we once again thought of a 10-second shower (rivers are getting more and more icy)!
And had her first romantic dinner - steaks grilled on the fire and a glass of wine
Thursday, 8.12.
Today we arrived in Coyhaique, a quarter of the way!